I’m in Amritsar in Punjab, near the Pakistan border. When I arrived yesterday (Tuesday I think), I was greeted with the intense heat and a million turban’s of the Sikh men who reside here. I met a fellow Brit at the station, David, who was staying at my hotel – the Grand, which is just near the station. I was originally going to stay in the Guruwandas – the free accommodation for Sikh pilgrims at the Golden temple, however I have a nasty cold coming on and was felling pretty grotty after my booze fueled night the day before.

The Grand is a massive rip off so be careful if you stay here. The rooms are nice – air

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