Founded by the Portuguese in 1549, Salvador served as the administrative and political centre of Brazil whilst sugar, cocoa and cotton was staple of the Brazilian economy. Following the decline of these export goods, the North East and Salvador especially was abandoned by the wealthy, leaving behind a legacy of poverty and forgotten people. Salvador continued to grow however and is now Brazil’s third largest city after Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
Salvador was a major slave colony and as a result has the highest percentage african-brazilian population. There are many afro-brazilian influences here including Capoeira, Brazil’s artistic fight-dance, was founded in Salvador, and main food dishes such as Mouqueca – a delicious fish stew. Major colonial centre is Pelourinho with the Terreiro de Jesus fountain and Igreja e convento são Francisco.
Salvador is in Bahia, the largest state in the north east, with 620 miles of Palm-tree lined Atlantic coast line. When the Portuguese first arrived, almost the entire stretch of the coast was rainforest, however virtually all is now farm land. The Atlantic coast runs from Barra in central Salvador along to Ondina, Vermelha, Amaralina, Pituba, Pituaça and Itapua, before heading up north along the Linha Verde. Praia do Forte is the famous diving centre and protected area for turtles.
Travelling to Salvador
Salvador airport is around 22 miles from the centre (a long old journey) but has fairly good bus connections to the city. Catching the bus from Salvador airport to the centre is a little confusing as you have to leave the terminal (remember to punch as many hassling taxi drivers as possible), cross the road with tour buses parked (to the side with the car park), head for the exit then turn left into a small bus station.
The main bus station in the city is by a big shopping centre in Pernambués – again a fair old way outside of centre. Here you can get buses heading North up the Linha Verde toward Maceió and Recife. The Linha Verde leading up the Atlantic coast is highly recommended as the beaches here are simply astounding.
Hotels and Hostels in Salvador
Stayed in three hostels in salvador:
- Amber Posuada – one night in dorm which was ok and relatively cheap at 50Rs per person per night – good if you are lone travelling, but a private room which was really nice was 116Rs per night. No Ac but balcony, fan and warm shower
- Alpha Hostel – dodgy backstreet with loads of smashed up cars and shady locals just hanging around, but just off main street next to shopping barra so good location (sort of). Not as nice private room or general interior as Amber as a little dirty (showers were disgusting and I couldn’t sit in toilet cubicle with door closed as it closed with only a few centimetres between toilet and door!) Otherwise, friendly staff, free wifi and v cheap – 80Rs per room per night
- Open House – best of the lot – owners are artists and usually use house as an art training school. Really friendly staff, beautiful house in good location a little walk from main strip but quiet and safe. 90RS per night for private room, but also have dorm beds (not sure on price). Great breakfast of fresh fruit and juices.